Free measuring tool

How to measure a door

Measure once, order once. We'll walk you through every measurement and tell you exactly which door fits: the size, the swing, the jamb and the rough opening.

  • Free, no sign-up
  • About 10 minutes
  • Checked by real door experts

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The complete guide

How to measure a door, step by step

The parts of a door

Door sizes get confusing because people measure different things. Here's what each word means:

  • Slab: the door itself. A "36-inch" exterior door actually measures 35-3/4" wide and 79" tall.
  • Frame (the unit): the jambs, head and threshold the door hangs in. A prehung door, or door system, comes with the door already hung in its frame.
  • Rough opening: the framed hole in the wall, stud to stud and floor to header. It's a little bigger than the frame, so there's room to shim it plumb and square.
  • Jamb depth: how far the frame reaches through the wall. It should match your wall's thickness.
  • Handing: which side the hinges are on, and which way the door swings.

What you'll need

  • A tape measure. A 25-foot tape with a stiff blade is easiest.
  • A pencil and paper, or your phone.
  • A flashlight for dark corners.
  • To measure the rough opening: a flat pry bar, and a utility knife to score the paint before you pull the trim.
  • For a new door in an old frame: a dime and a quarter, to check the hinge corners.

Measure everything to the nearest 1/16". Write each number down before you take the next one.

Replacing the whole door: measure the rough opening

  1. Score the paint along the inside trim (the casing) with a utility knife and pry it off. Go slowly and you can reuse it.
  2. Width: measure stud to stud at the top, middle and bottom. Where the old frame is in the way, measure the frame's outside width and add the gap on each side. Use the smallest number.
  3. Height: measure from the subfloor, where the threshold sits, to the underside of the header, on the left and the right. Not from the top of the old threshold: it sits on the subfloor and is usually 1" to 2" tall. If it is in the way, measure to its top and add its height. Use the smaller number.
  4. Square: measure both diagonals, corner to corner. Within 1/8" is square; up to 1/4", an installer can shim it out.
  5. Wall thickness: measure from the inside wall surface to the outside of the sheathing.

Your new frame should be 1/2" to 1-1/2" narrower and 1/4" to 1" shorter than the rough opening. The tool does this math for you.

Can't remove the trim? Measure your current door

You can get a good estimate without taking anything apart:

  1. Open the door and measure the door itself: edge to edge, and top to bottom.
  2. Measure between the jambs, where the door closes, at the top, middle and bottom.
  3. Measure the jamb front to back, not counting the trim.
  4. From outside, measure across the brickmold, outside edge to outside edge.

A new door system the same size as your old one fits the same opening in almost every home. Confirm the rough opening before you order, or send us your measurements and photos and we'll review them for free. Guaranteed Fit covers door systems measured at the rough opening.

Keeping your frame: measure for a new door slab

A new door has to match your frame exactly, so measure the old door and the frame:

  1. The old door: width, height and thickness. Most exterior doors are 1-3/4" thick, and most interior doors 1-3/8".
  2. The frame: between the jambs at the top, middle and bottom, and from the head jamb to the threshold on both sides.
  3. Hinges: count them, measure one hinge's height (3-1/2", 4" or 4-1/2"), and measure from the top of the door to the top of each hinge. Check the corners: square, or round like a dime (1/4") or a quarter (5/8").
  4. Lock: count the holes, measure the backset (the door edge to the center of the hole, usually 2-3/8" or 2-3/4"), and measure from the top of the door to the center of each hole.

We prep the new door to match. If your frame is rotted or out of square, or the door never latched well, replace the whole door instead: a new slab can't fix the frame.

Measuring a new opening

If the wall is framed, measure the rough opening the same way as for a replacement. If it isn't framed yet, pick your door first and frame to its rough opening. The tool gives you the exact size, and the table below lists the common ones.

Frame the header level and the studs plumb, and make sure the floor where the threshold sits is flat and level.

Which way does it swing?

Stand inside your home, facing the door:

  • Inswing doors (opening toward you) are named by the handle side. Handle on the left: a left-hand inswing (LHIS).
  • Outswing doors (opening away from you) are named by the hinge side. Hinges on the left: a left-hand outswing (LHOS).

Interior doors are named from the side the door swings away from you: hinges on the left is a left-hand door.

You don't need to remember any of this. The tool asks two simple questions and works it out. Handing can't be changed once a door is built, so it's worth a second look.

Wall thickness and jamb depth

The jamb should be as deep as your wall, so the trim sits flat on both sides. Replacing a door? Just lay the tape across your old jamb, front to back: it was made to match the wall. Measure from the inside wall surface (drywall or plaster) to the outside of the sheathing, not the siding or brick.

  • 2x4 wall with 1/2" drywall and 1/2" sheathing: about 4-1/2". Use a 4-9/16" jamb.
  • 2x6 wall: about 6-1/2". Use a 6-9/16" jamb.
  • Stucco: about 5-1/4" on a 2x4 wall and 7-1/4" on a 2x6 wall.
  • Anything in between (plaster, thicker sheathing, foam board): we cut jambs to any depth from 3-9/16" to 8-9/16".
  • Deeper walls, such as brick or block: add a jamb extension on the inside.

Standard door sizes

Doors are named by a rounded size. Here's what each one actually measures, and the rough opening it needs. Every size is width x height.

Exterior doors (1-3/4" thick, standard inswing threshold)
Door sizeSlabFrame (unit)Rough opening
30" x 80" (6'8")29-3/4" x 79"31-1/2" x 81-3/4"32" to 33" x 82" to 82-3/4"
32" x 80" (6'8")31-3/4" x 79"33-1/2" x 81-3/4"34" to 35" x 82" to 82-3/4"
34" x 80" (6'8")33-3/4" x 79"35-1/2" x 81-3/4"36" to 37" x 82" to 82-3/4"
36" x 80" (6'8")35-3/4" x 79"37-1/2" x 81-3/4"38" to 39" x 82" to 82-3/4"
36" x 96" (8'0")35-3/4" x 95"37-1/2" x 97-3/4"38" to 39" x 98" to 98-3/4"
36" x 80" with two 12" sidelites35-3/4" x 79" + 2 x 11-7/8"64-1/2" x 81-3/4"65" to 66" x 82" to 82-3/4"
72" x 80" double door2 x 35-3/4" x 79"74" x 81-3/4"74-1/2" to 75-1/2" x 82" to 82-3/4"
Interior doors (1-3/8" thick)
Door sizeFrame (unit)Rough opening
24" x 80"25-9/16" x 81-3/4"26-1/16" to 27-1/16" x 82" to 82-3/4"
28" x 80"29-9/16" x 81-3/4"30-1/16" to 31-1/16" x 82" to 82-3/4"
30" x 80"31-9/16" x 81-3/4"32-1/16" to 33-1/16" x 82" to 82-3/4"
32" x 80"33-9/16" x 81-3/4"34-1/16" to 35-1/16" x 82" to 82-3/4"
36" x 80"37-9/16" x 81-3/4"38-1/16" to 39-1/16" x 82" to 82-3/4"

Mistakes we see most often

  • Ordering the opening's size. A 36" opening needs a smaller door. Order the door or frame size that fits the opening.
  • Taking one reading. Openings are rarely square. Measure three widths and two heights, and use the smallest.
  • Ordering the rounded size as a slab. A "36-inch" exterior door is 35-3/4" wide. Measure the old door edge to edge.
  • Including the trim. Brickmold and casing aren't part of the rough opening.
  • Guessing the swing. Answer from inside the house, facing the door.
  • Forgetting the floor. New tile or hardwood raises the floor. Raise the sill to match, so an inswing door clears it.
  • A storm door in the way. Make sure a storm door's handle won't hit your new door's lock.

Older homes and odd sizes

Older homes often have doors 6'6" tall or 2'8" wide, or openings that have settled out of square. When no standard size fits, a trimmable fiberglass door can be cut down in our shop: up to 3" off the top and 1" off each side (oversize trimmable: up to 10" off the top). Standard fiberglass doors can lose only 1/2", off the bottom, and fire-rated doors can't be cut at all. The tool works out the cut for you, or call us and we'll help.

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Measuring questions

Do I measure the door or the opening?

It depends on what you're replacing. For a complete door system, measure the rough opening (the framed hole in the wall). For a new door in your existing frame, measure the old door and the frame. The tool asks and walks you through the right one.

What is a rough opening?

The framed hole in the wall the door system fits into: stud to stud, and from the subfloor to the header. It's slightly bigger than the frame so the installer can shim it plumb and square.

How much bigger than the door should the rough opening be?

The rough opening should be 1/2" to 1-1/2" wider and 1/4" to 1" taller than the door frame. For a standard 36" x 80" exterior door system, that's 38" to 39" wide and 82" to 82-3/4" tall.

Is a 36-inch door really 36 inches wide?

No. A "36-inch" exterior door measures 35-3/4" wide, and a 6'8" door is 79" tall. The rounded size is the name; always measure the actual door.

How do I tell if my door is left-handed or right-handed?

Stand inside, facing the door. An inswing door is named by its handle side; an outswing door by its hinge side. The tool asks two simple questions and works it out for you.

Can I put a new door in my old frame?

Yes, if the frame is solid and square. The new door has to match your hinges and lock holes exactly, so you'll measure those too, and we prep the door to match. If the frame is rotted or the door never closed well, a complete door system is the better choice.

Can a door be cut down to fit?

Standard fiberglass doors can be trimmed up to 1/2", off the bottom only. Trimmable fiberglass doors can lose up to 3" off the top and 1" off each side, and oversize trimmable doors up to 10" off the top. Fire-rated doors can't be cut. A trimmed door can't be returned.

What jamb depth do I need?

One that matches your wall: about 4-9/16" for a 2x4 wall and 6-9/16" for a 2x6 wall. We cut jambs to any depth from 3-9/16" to 8-9/16" for walls in between.

What if my opening isn't square or my floor isn't level?

Up to 1/4" out of square, an installer can shim it. More than that, straighten the framing first. If the floor slopes, shim the sill level and fully support it before you set the door.

Will you check my measurements?

Yes, free. Send your measurements from the tool with a few photos, and a Pease door expert confirms the exact door that fits, usually within one business day. If we confirm it and it doesn't fit, we'll remake it in the correct size at no charge, including shipping, or refund your order. For door systems, the guarantee needs the rough opening measured directly.

Real door experts

Rather talk it through?

Call or text a photo of your door to 513-871-8907 and we will help you measure.