Frequently Asked Questions

Measure your existing frame from outside edge to outside edge, both width and height. Don't measure the door or the glass. Kits are named by their frame size, and each size fits frames up to 1/2" smaller. For example, a 24x66 kit fits frames 23-1/2" to 24" wide and 65-1/2" to 66" tall.

If your door has no frame, measure the opening (the cutout) instead. Our kits fit 1-3/4" thick doors.

Not sure? Text us a photo with a tape measure across the frame, or use our Guaranteed Fit program.

Tell us about your door and we'll confirm the exact product that fits before you order. Fill out the Guaranteed Fit application with:

• the SKU of the product you're considering (it's under the price on the product page);
• your project, for example replacing the glass and frame, replacing just the frame, or adding glass to a solid door;
• your door's width, height, thickness and material;
• at least one photo of your door, ideally with a tape measure across the frame.

Yes. The size in the title is the finished frame size. The glass inside is smaller, and each product page lists the glass size in the description. Sizing a kit by the glass is the most common mistake we see, so always measure the frame.

It depends on the glass:

• Glass is broken, or foggy between the panes: buy a glass-and-frame kit. A new frame won't fix a failed seal.
• Glass is fine, frame is cracked or faded: buy a frame-only kit and reuse your glass.

We don't sell glass without a frame, or grids, gaskets or seals by themselves.

Frame-only kits are made for 1/2" or 1" thick glass, so check before you order:

1. On the inside of the door, pop off a few screw caps with a small screwdriver.
2. Back out the screws in one corner and gently pull the frame back.
3. Measure the whole two-pane glass unit, edge to edge.

Glass with grids between the panes is usually 1". If you can't tell, a glass-and-frame kit always fits.

Is your glass 3/4"? We don't make frames for 3/4" glass. Some of our 1/2" and 1" frames of the same size can be mixed to fit it, but not all of them have screw holes that line up. We recommend replacing 3/4" glass with a standard 1/2" or 1" glass-and-frame kit.

Yes. Our kits are universal, not tied to one brand. They fit Masonite, Therma-Tru, Stanley, Pease and other doors, as long as the frame measurements match and the door is 1-3/4" thick.

• 1-3/8" (interior) doors: use an interior kit, or add the filler strip conversion kit to an exterior kit.
• Other thicknesses (like 1-1/2" mobile home doors or 2" doors): we don't have kits for these.

Often, yes. Each kit lists the cutout it needs, which is 1" smaller than the kit size. For example, a 24x38 kit needs a 23x37 cutout. Leave at least 4" of door around the opening, and use the 22"-wide narrow kits on doors narrower than 32".

We can cut the opening and install the glass for you on many of our slabs; choose it on the product page. Glazed, contemporary and fire-rated doors can't be cut. See our cutout guide and videos to do it yourself.

Frames come in white with a raised (traditional) profile. On kits with 1" glass you can upgrade to a tan stainable frame or a white flat (modern) frame. Grids between the glass come in white or bronze.

All our frames are made of premium polypropylene, PC/ABS or vinyl that resist warping, cracking and discoloring from heat. For a door that faces direct sun or will be painted a dark color, we recommend PC/ABS frames, which have the best heat resistance.

Behind a storm door: installing behind a storm door voids the warranty, because the trapped heat is hard on frames. If you choose to install behind a storm door anyway, use PC/ABS frames; they'll perform best.

Yes. Tan stainable frames take paint or stain with no primer; they're the best choice for stain or dark colors. White frames need prep first: sand lightly, clean with denatured alcohol, and prime with a plastic adhesion promoter (such as Sherwin-Williams UPO 7226) before an exterior acrylic latex paint. See our guide to painting or staining door glass frames. Planning a dark color on a door in direct sun? Ask us about PC/ABS frames.

No. The outside frame comes with a built-in seal that sets when you tighten the screws. The screws go in from the inside only.

Low-E glass is available for most clear glass styles. It blocks solar heat and UV, so it's worth it if the door gets strong direct sun, for example a south- or west-facing door or a hot climate. Otherwise clear glass works well and costs less. Low-E looks almost the same as clear, with a very slight tint.

Yes. Many sizes come with privacy (obscure) glass or blinds sealed between the panes. The sealed blinds never need dusting and raise, lower and tilt with one control. We don't carry add-on blinds or one-way mirror glass.

No. Our glass kits are for entry doors and sidelites. We do sell complete patio door units.

Sometimes, but custom glass costs much more than a standard kit and takes longer. A new slab with a standard opening is often the cheaper fix. Send us your measurements and photos for a quote.

Ovals are the exception: measure the glass itself, height and width. For a frame-only oval kit, your glass must be within 1/8" of the glass size on the product page.

Make sure each screw is fully seated, then warm the caps in your hand and tap them in with a rubber mallet. Missing caps? Contact us and we'll send replacements at no charge.

No. Those shipping tabs are designed to break off. They protect the glass in transit and don't affect the fit or seal.

Pick the type by your door, then the reach by your gap:

1. Type: magnetic weatherstrip for steel doors, compression for wood and fiberglass doors.
2. Gap: close the door and measure from the face of the door to the jamb stop, with the old weatherstrip pulled out.

Our weatherstrip fits any frame with a 1/8" kerf (the thin slot the weatherstrip presses into), whatever the brand. We match by gap size, not by an old part number.

Everything for one door: two side pieces and a head piece. Cut the head piece to width. Order 81" strips for an 80" door; 97" strips fit 8-foot doors. Single strips are also sold. Weatherstrip ships coiled and relaxes back to shape.

Weatherstrip comes in bronze (a very dark brown, close to black), white and beige. Sweeps come in bronze, and some styles in white. Availability varies by color, so check the product page.

Take the old sweep off and text us a photo of its end. Then work out the type:

• Drive-on or slide-on: fins (darts) push into slots in the bottom of the door. Measure center to center between the darts; 7/8" is most common.
• Staple-on: fastens to the inside face of the door.
• Wrap-around: wraps the bottom of the door and is cut to length. It fits most doors, including trimmed doors whose slots were cut off.

We also carry a staple-on sweep for 2" to 2-1/4" thick doors. Cut sweeps can't be returned, so test the fit first.

Corner seals are small pads that sit on the threshold at the bottom corners of the frame, where the weatherstrip meets the sill. That's where most drafts and leaks start. If you see light at the bottom corners with the door closed, add them. They install without taking the door down, and our door systems include them.

Match it to your door width, your jamb depth and your swing:

• Depth: a 6" threshold goes with a 4-9/16" jamb, and an 8" threshold with a 6-9/16" jamb.
• Swing: inswing doors use an inswing threshold; outswing doors use a saddle threshold.
• Height: a high-dam threshold keeps water out best. A low-profile threshold is easier to step over and makes the door unit 1/4" shorter.

Thresholds come in mill aluminum or bronze. Buy the next size up and trim it to fit.

No. We sell complete thresholds only. The center wood is cold-oil-treated hardwood; you can seal it with an exterior polyurethane if you like.

Yes. See our guides for door sweeps and thresholds, and all the others on the Installation page.

• Slab: just the door, to hang in your existing frame.
• Door system (prehung): the door already hung in a new frame with the threshold, weatherstrip and hinges. Set it in the opening and fasten it.

If your frame and threshold are solid, square and dry, a slab is the economical choice. If the frame is rotted, out of square or leaking, get a door system.

Most of our customers choose fiberglass. It won't dent, rust or rot, and it can be painted or, in woodgrain styles, stained. Steel is a good value and very strong. Solid mahogany gives the look and feel of real wood.

Slabs don't include hinges. You choose the prep: blank, our standard prep, or custom hinge and lock locations. Door systems include hinges and standard hinge prep, and you choose the lock prep.

Many fiberglass doors can be trimmed. How much depends on the door:

Ask us for the exact limit for your door. A door trimmed at the bottom gets a wrap-around sweep, and trimmed doors can't be returned.

• 20-minute fire-rated doors: built to order with the standard hinge and lock prep the fire label requires.
• Hurricane-rated: slabs and glass only. We don't sell certified hurricane-rated door systems.

We make many doors in custom sizes; send us the size, swing and wall depth for a quote. We don't make custom exterior jambs. Our blank jambs can be cut down on site.

No. We don't offer hollow-core doors.

Two legs and a head, in solid poplar. Standard depth is 4-9/16", and 6-9/16" is also available. We don't make steel or aluminum jambs.

• For a slab: measure your existing door's width, height and thickness, not the opening.
• For a door system: remove the inside trim and measure the rough opening, the framed hole from stud to stud and header to floor. The rough opening must be a little larger than the unit so you can shim it. Each product page lists both sizes.

Measure your wall thickness, or the existing jamb from its inside edge to its outside edge:

For an in-between wall, we can rip jambs to any depth up to 8-9/16".

Stand inside your home, facing the door.

• Inswing (opens into the house): it's named for the side the knob is on. Knob on the right is a right-hand inswing.
• Outswing (opens out): it's named for the side the hinges are on. Hinges on the right is a right-hand outswing.

We confirm handing on every door system before we build it, and we're glad to send a diagram.

Yes. Our slabs are reversible because the hinge prep is routed straight through, so your existing frame decides the handing. Once we add custom prep or an off-center cutout for you, the slab is made for one hand.

Contact us right away. If it hasn't been built, we'll fix the order. If it has, we can usually help with replacement jamb parts to switch the swing.

Two 2-1/8" holes 5-1/2" apart (handle below, deadbolt above) at a 2-3/8" backset. Backset is the distance from the edge of the door to the center of the hole. Most entry sets fit it. We also offer a single bore, 2-3/4" or 2" backsets, custom prep or no prep.

Yes. We sell Emtek and Yale entry sets that fit our standard double-bore prep. Yale sets adjust to a 2-3/8" or 2-3/4" backset; they don't fit a 2" backset.

Choose an entry set made for double-bore doors, or fill the top hole with a dummy deadbolt.

Our exterior hinges are 4" x 4" with 5/8" round corners, for 1-3/4" doors, in many finishes. Doors taller than 84-1/2" get four hinges. Stainless steel and marine-grade hinges are available for coastal homes.

We'll contact you with the closest in-stock alternative, or cancel and refund that item, whichever you prefer.

Yes. Our shop paints doors in one color or two (one color outside, another inside) and stains woodgrain fiberglass and wood doors. Before a stained door is clear-coated, we send you photos to approve the color.

Yes. Our doors come primed, and slabs, jambs and trim must be painted or stained after installation. Unfinished parts aren't covered by the warranty.

Woodgrain fiberglass and wood doors can be stained; the product page says so. Smooth fiberglass and steel doors are for paint.

• In-stock items that don't need any work (no prep, cutting, assembly or finishing) typically ship the same or next business day.
• Shop work starts once all of your items are in stock. Allow 1 business day for trimming, cutting or prep (such as lock prep or a glass cutout), 1 to 3 business days for finishing (priming, painting or staining), and 2 to 5 business days for assembly (such as a prehung door system).
• Out-of-stock items typically ship in 1 to 2 weeks unless the product page says otherwise, and made-to-order items in 3 to 6 weeks.

Each product page shows whether the item is in stock and, if it isn't, its estimated restock date. You'll get an email with tracking as soon as your order ships. Need it by a date? Text or email us before you order.

It depends on the shipping service you choose at checkout. After your order leaves our warehouse, most customers receive it within:

Large, heavy or bulk orders ship by freight truck, packed to protect them in transit. Delivery is curbside, and you'll move the items from the curb. Choose Priority Freight at checkout for delivery in 2 to 5 business days after your order ships, or economy freight for 7 to 15. The service level depends on what's being shipped. Delivery appointments or holding a shipment may cost extra, and those fees are your responsibility. See our shipping policy for details.

It depends on the size and weight of your order. You'll see the exact cost at checkout after you enter your address.

Everything ships to the contiguous United States. Some smaller items can also ship to Canada, Hawaii and Alaska; you'll see the options at checkout after you enter your address. If checkout doesn't show a rate for your location, contact us for a custom shipping quote. We can't ship to P.O. boxes.

Yes, free, at our Cincinnati warehouse. Choose pickup at checkout, then wait for the "ready for pickup" email before you come. Pickup hours are 9 AM to 4 PM, Monday to Friday, or by appointment.

Yes, before your order ships. Text 513-871-8907 or email us right away. Once it's with the carrier, we can't change it.

Contact us. We'll check with the carrier, and if the package is lost we'll ship a replacement or refund you, whichever you prefer.

1. Start your return at peasedoors.com/apps/returns within 30 days of delivery.
2. Print the emailed label, tape it to the box and drop it off with the carrier.

Items must be unused, uninstalled, unmodified and in their original packaging. You pay for return shipping, and freight items must come back on a pallet. Shipping costs aren't refundable: the cost of shipping your order to you is deducted from your refund. Refunds go to your original payment method after we receive and inspect the return. See our return policy for details.

• Anything used, installed, painted or otherwise modified
• Clearance and final-sale items
• Custom and built-to-order doors and door systems
• Parts cut to your size, like thresholds, jambs, sweeps and astragals
• Slabs we prepped, cut, trimmed or glazed for you

Made-to-order items (hurricane impact glass, standard-size patio doors and transoms) carry a 25% restocking or cancellation fee.

Yes, until it ships (and, for built-to-order items, before we start building it). Contact us and we'll cancel or edit it. Once it's with the carrier, use the returns portal instead, and please don't refuse the delivery.

Yes. When your built-to-order door is finished, we email you photos for a final review. Reply within 24 hours if anything needs to change; after that it ships as built. Photos are taken in warehouse lighting, so glass can look darker than it will in your home.

Inspect everything when it arrives, and don't install a damaged item. Email or text us:

• photos of the damage;
• photos of the box and its shipping label;
• your order number.

Report parcel damage within 15 days of delivery and freight damage within 2 business days. We'll send a replacement for the damaged or missing part.

Coverage is prorated after the first year. See the Warranty page for the full terms.

Fill out the claim form on the Warranty page with photos of the problem and your order number, within the claim deadline listed there. We usually review claims within 1 to 3 business days.

• Improper installation, or doors and parts left unfinished
• Installation behind a storm door
• Dark paint on frames or louvers in direct sun
• Accidental breakage, and condensation from indoor humidity
• Products not bought from Pease Doors

Yes, once. Register the transfer with us within 30 days of installation, with the order number, the homeowner's contact details and the installation address.

We don't install doors ourselves, but our preferred installers are happy to help. Doing it yourself? Our Installation page has step-by-step guides and videos, and we're glad to walk you through your project by phone.

No. Remove the old frame and glass, clean the opening, set the new kit and tighten the screws from inside. Large kits are a two-person job.

Yes. Fill out our trade (B2B) form and we'll set up a business account with trade pricing.

Yes. Send your door list (sizes, swings, wall depth, glass and finish) to info@peasedoors.com and we'll build a quote.

Yes. Email your tax-exempt certificate to info@peasedoors.com before you order, and we'll send our W-9 on request.

Yes. Visit our showroom at 5801 Mariemont Ave, Cincinnati, OH 45227, 10 AM to 5 PM, Monday to Friday, or by appointment. We sell online and ship from our Cincinnati warehouse, where local customers can also pick up orders.

No. Pease Doors is a new company started by the grandsons of the founder of Pease Industries, the steel door manufacturer. We work with many of the suppliers that made components for Pease doors, so we can offer components and complete door systems that are compatible with legacy Pease Industries doors. Send us photos and measurements and we'll find the right parts.

Because we're a different company, we don't have access to the old Pease Industries records (we can't look up doors by serial number) and can't help with their warranty claims. Pease Industries was purchased by Pella, so please direct warranty questions about those doors to Pella.